Posted by: Jonathan
Boy does it feel good to be back in the saddle… the international travel saddle that is, albeit only for 10 days.
Our Destination: The San Blas Islands – 340+ white sand ringed, palm tree covered, Caribbean islands stretching from Panama towards Columbia. Only a handful of the islands are inhabited by tribes of indigenous Kuna Indians. Although technically part of Panama, each group of islands are ruled autonomously by Sahilas (village Chiefs). Their customs and way of life have been well preserved by not allowing outsiders (Panamanian or foreign) to purchase land, invest in businesses, or marry into the tribe. The lack of infrastructure has also been key in keeping the islands remote and pristine, putting it on our ever lengthening travel “to do” list. How do you vacation on remote uninhabited islands you might ask? Very good question, I struggled with this for months after taking the plunge and booking flights. Negotiating with Kuna fishermen in their native Kuna language to transport us from island to island, carrying enough food, water, and getting permission from Sahilas to camp on the islands seemed like a logistical nightmare. So we settled on the next best thing, chartering a private sailboat with husband and wife (captain and cook) team to take us island hopping to the remote corners of this picture perfect paradise.
Our flight into Panama City, Panama went smoothly due to my better half negotiating us onto an earlier flight to make our international connection after our original flight was delayed (I first tried and failed). After one night in Panama City we awoke early the next morning to catch a 6am puddle jumper flight to Corazan De Jesus.
Boy does it feel good to be back in the saddle… the international travel saddle that is, albeit only for 10 days.
Our Destination: The San Blas Islands – 340+ white sand ringed, palm tree covered, Caribbean islands stretching from Panama towards Columbia. Only a handful of the islands are inhabited by tribes of indigenous Kuna Indians. Although technically part of Panama, each group of islands are ruled autonomously by Sahilas (village Chiefs). Their customs and way of life have been well preserved by not allowing outsiders (Panamanian or foreign) to purchase land, invest in businesses, or marry into the tribe. The lack of infrastructure has also been key in keeping the islands remote and pristine, putting it on our ever lengthening travel “to do” list. How do you vacation on remote uninhabited islands you might ask? Very good question, I struggled with this for months after taking the plunge and booking flights. Negotiating with Kuna fishermen in their native Kuna language to transport us from island to island, carrying enough food, water, and getting permission from Sahilas to camp on the islands seemed like a logistical nightmare. So we settled on the next best thing, chartering a private sailboat with husband and wife (captain and cook) team to take us island hopping to the remote corners of this picture perfect paradise.
Our flight into Panama City, Panama went smoothly due to my better half negotiating us onto an earlier flight to make our international connection after our original flight was delayed (I first tried and failed). After one night in Panama City we awoke early the next morning to catch a 6am puddle jumper flight to Corazan De Jesus.
We were originally told our flight had been canceled due to runway repairs but the day of the flight, they said they would “drop us off on their way” even though the runway was closed… mixed emotions on that one. You know you are getting on a small plane when you have to get on the same scale as your luggage…
The twin engine prop plane groaned trying to take off through the hazy sunrise. After one hour the plane skidded to a stop on a very short, busted runway on a small uninhabited island just long enough to drop us off before taking back off with the remaining 6 Kuna locals.
A short launcha (boat taxi) ride from “the airport” we were boarding Blue Sky, our home for the next week with Debbie and Breeze. Blue Sky is a 52’ cutter rigged pilot house ketch (aka spacious sailboat) with two rooms, two full bathrooms, saloon, kitchen, and covered outdoor sitting area.
Over the course of the week we visited 15-20 uninhabited, stunningly beautiful islands shaded by palm trees, ringed by white sand, and surrounded by bustling colorful reef.
One day we stopped on a small beautiful island that the Rosalinda family lived on. It didn’t take long for Jenn’s gypsy side to come out and before I knew it she was learning the tradition of Kuna beaded jewelry. They wrap a continuous strand around and around their arms and legs to create designs (having to take into account the change in contour of their leg in the # of beads to keep the pattern).
Sometimes I wonder if they realize how beautiful their view is from their front yard… if you don’t know any different and this is the only beach you have ever seen, then do you even appreciate it?
About part way through the trip we stopped by Rio Ascucar, an inhabited island close to mainland Panama, for water. Blue Sky’s 500 gallon water tank was running low since there hadn’t been any rain to collect water and there are only a couple places to get water in all of the San Blas. While the boat's tank was being filled by a garden hose (approx. 2 hours) it gave us an opportunity to explore the whole island.
While we were there a Columbian cargo boat docked next to us. The Columbian cargo boats supply the San Blas with everything from sugar and rice to diapers and plastic tubs since they are semi isolated from Panama. The cargo boat purchased sacks of aluminum cans and coconuts from the Kuna villages to take back to Columbia. I thought for sure other Columbian “goods” would be trading hands as well, but never saw any… |
Our favorite days were when the boat was anchored close to four or five islands and we would take the kayaks and explored the islands by ourselves at our own pace returning to the boat only for food and alcohol.
The picture perfect islands never got old, no matter which direction you looked there was always a postcard snapshot, even while sitting on the toilet.
The islands were just as beautiful above as they were below.
One of the great parts about this sailing adventure was enjoying the getting from A to B. I stayed busy fishing and manning the sails while Jenn worked on her tan and read. In the evenings we would sit on the bow and relax eating chilled peanut M&M’s and drinking vino tinto (red wine).
We spent one afternoon on an island with a friendly Kuna man and his trusty side-kick Principe de la Isla (Prince of the island). It was very interesting seeing how simple many of the Kuna fisherman lived, just catching enough fish to survive, not wondering when he should rebalance his 401k or if Greece's economy is going to rebound. It always amazes me how the happiest people seem to have the least, and are willing to share what little they have with you.
Our final day in the San Blas we were rewarded with ample sunshine, blue sky and multiple beautiful islands to kayak between. Both Jenn and I discussed the logistics of how to stay forever, not sure how Ziggy would feel about living on a sailboat.
Two thumbs up to Debbie and Breeze for their amazing hospitality and allowing us to experience a slice of paradise. I am not sure how Debbie created the miracles that were our meals each day in the tiny little kitchen - we ate better in the remote San Blas from a 2 burner stove than we do in our spacious kitchen with any ingredient imaginable at our finger tips.
After making the half day boat/4x4 trip over the mountains back to Panama City we decided to forgo the hotel rooftop pool to explore the city. First stop for a couple of engineers… Panama Canal. The museum and history of how the canal was built was interesting but the real treat was watching multiple cargo ships be raised and lowered through the locks.
We spent the evening wandering around Casco Viejo which is Old Town Panama.
No trip to Panama would be complete without some Ceviche (fish cooked by letting it soak in lemon juice) so we went to a local fish market and devoured $2 cups of ceviche while watching Panama versus Honduras on big screens battle it out on the futbol field.
Overall Panama and the San Blas were an amazing destination and we are glad we were able to experience it on a sailboat. This has certainly upped the expectations for our next vacation planned for November. Until then, its back to rebalancing 401k’s and speculating about Greece's economy…