Posted by: Jonathan
Although the train journey started out a little "uncomfortable," once we locked the door to our first class cabin we slept soundly the 10 hours to Gorakhpur. From there we caught a local bus to the border. Jenn flicked off the Indian "come visit us again" sign as we crossed into Nepal.
We got a visa on arrival which was easy enough until we tried to pay for it. They were turning down each US bill I had due to small tears, them being slightly worn, or them being an old style. Finally, one fifty was accepted after three officials examined it under black lights. From the border we took a shared jeep to the nearest town and then a bus to Pokhara (which broke down along the way).
Arriving at 10 P.M., we had been traveling for 26 hours straight and hadn't had a proper meal for longer. Our hotel offered me an all you can eat plate for $2...they lost money on that one. The city of Pokhara sits on the edge of a lake backed by soaring Himalayan peaks. We spent one day resting, eating, and exploring the lakeside town.
The next day we rented a motorcycle and rode around the lake as well as running some errands to get all the necessary permits and passes needed to trek independently. Although nothing will ever replace Dakota, this was by far the best bike rental thus far on the trip.
Before the sun rose the next morning we rode the bike up a nearby mountain and watched the Himalayan mountains bathe in the early morning rays.
Before returning the bike we drove it up a foot path to the top of a mountain that overlooked the lake, town, and the World Peace Pagoda.
We then gathered supplies (chocolate, warm clothes, and more chocolate) for a multi-day trek into the heart of the Himalayas. The trek we chose was the Annapurna Base Camp Trek (ABC for short). There were several reasons we chose this one: we heard good reviews from returning hikers, it could be completed in 6-14 days depending on our speed and side trips, it went above the snowline but not so high that we needed altitude medication and expensive gear, there is no need for guides or porters, and it has an extensive network of tea houses along the way. Tea houses are mountain cottages that have simple rooms that are incredibly cheap and dining rooms serving incredibly expensive but delicious meals.
Day 1 - Phedi (3710 ft) to Landruk (5135 ft): We shared at taxi at 6 A.M. to the ABC trail hea d in Phedi with three others we had met while getting supplies.
The trail head started with a steep ascent up stone steps...the first of thousands. The majority of the day the trail snaked its way up and down terraced mountain sides.
By lunch time three more hikers had joined us, making our group eight strong.
We arrived at a tea house at around 3 P.M. and decided to call the day there since the afternoon rain showers were beginning to pass through. We spent some time exploring the small village before eating dinner and spending the evening playing cards and entertaining the owners baby girl.
Day 2 - Landruk (5135 ft) to Chhomrong (7250 ft): The eight of us finished breakfast by 6:30 A.M. and set out in a light drizzle. We crossed numerous bridges, some sketchier than others, before arriving in Chhomrong. We originally had planned to go further but five hours hiking in the rain coupled with the tea house offering hot showers, wood fire pizzas, oven baked pastries, and chocolate cake was enough to convince us to drop our plan and our bags. That evening the rain stopped and the skies cleared revealing some incredible mountain views. That night while playing cards and eating pizza we met Vin (a teacher originally from England living in Australia) who joined our troop giving us a total of nine.
Day 3 - Chhomrong (7250ft) to Himalayan (9514 ft): We set out early again, but this time with clear blue skies for the majority of the day. During the course of the day we descended down a mountain to the river far below, then back to the top of another mountain, and then again back to the river (I lost count of how many times we repeated this process).
We arrived at a tea house with spectacular views just before the afternoon rain shower passed over.
Jenn and I were constantly amazed that villages existed with some more than a week of walking to the nearest road or store. What wasn't grown, cooked, or created in the town was carried on the back of a porter the entire distance. This included, but isn't limited to: cages of live chickens, drums of fuel, tanks of propane, cookware, timber, and other building materials. The porters are paid on average $7 a day to carry 125 lbs for around 10-12 hours. They carry these loads on their backs with a strap wrapped around their forehead. It was humbling to be panting on an uphill section only to give way to a guy half my size carrying 10 times what I was with a single strap on his forehead.
Jenn and I were constantly amazed that villages existed with some more than a week of walking to the nearest road or store. What wasn't grown, cooked, or created in the town was carried on the back of a porter the entire distance. This included, but isn't limited to: cages of live chickens, drums of fuel, tanks of propane, cookware, timber, and other building materials. The porters are paid on average $7 a day to carry 125 lbs for around 10-12 hours. They carry these loads on their backs with a strap wrapped around their forehead. It was humbling to be panting on an uphill section only to give way to a guy half my size carrying 10 times what I was with a single strap on his forehead.
Day 4 - Himalayan (9514 ft) to Machhapuchhre (12,140 ft): Again, with the predawn start. This was my favorite day of hiking because the views were constantly amazing in every direction. That, and the ever present danger of avalanches that strand hikers in the valley for days, added to the experience.
Jenn wasn't much of a fan of the elevation gain that day.
As the sun set and the snow began to fall on Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC), where we stopped for the night, we bundled up in everything we owned and still weren't able to stay warm.
Day 5 - Machhapuchhre (12,140 ft) to Annapurna B.C. (13,550 ft) to Bamboo (7677 ft): We awoke at 4:30 A.M. and braved the darkness and freezing cold air to make it to ABC by sunrise.
Day 5 - Machhapuchhre (12,140 ft) to Annapurna B.C. (13,550 ft) to Bamboo (7677 ft): We awoke at 4:30 A.M. and braved the darkness and freezing cold air to make it to ABC by sunrise.
The early morning light lit the tops of the mountains making them look as if they were catching fire.
We spent several hours soaking in the landscape and taking a few too many photos
We then ordered warm drinks to celebrate our success in reaching "the top". I put this in quotations because it was humbling to realize the five days spent hiking here is just the beginning for those using the base came to then climb one of the nearby peaks.
From ABC our group of nine began parting ways as each person began the long descent back down the way we came to the valley far below. A portion of the trail that we crossed just the day before was covered in a fresh avalanche, forcing us to detour a bit.
We made it back below the snowline and treeline before clouds began moving in and the sound of distant thunder convinced us to halt our downhill progress. Although, the whole group wasn't together, we were still hiking with Vin, Raj, and Ronja.
Day 6 - Bamboo (7677 ft) to Chhomrong (7250 ft): We slept in (8 A.M.) for the first time since the trek began. We ate a leisurely breakfast and hiked only four hours before reaching Chhomrong, the town we stopped in before with hot showers, pizzas, pasties, and chocolate cake (each deserved a second visit).
Day 6 - Bamboo (7677 ft) to Chhomrong (7250 ft): We slept in (8 A.M.) for the first time since the trek began. We ate a leisurely breakfast and hiked only four hours before reaching Chhomrong, the town we stopped in before with hot showers, pizzas, pasties, and chocolate cake (each deserved a second visit).
Day 7 - Chhomrong (7250 ft) to Naya Pul (3510 ft): We awoke early and the five of us were eating chocolate danishes fresh from the oven when a rainstorm swept through. We stalled, eating more pastries, and discussed taking a day off from hiking. But as quickly as the storm came, it left, and we had no excuse not to lace up and head out.
We spent the day trampsing downhill and dodging rain showers. We had no intention of walking the whole way out but the idea of clean clothes, soft sandals, and large steaks drove us on past our intended stopping points.
Just as we arrived to Naya Pul a fierce hail storm swept through dropping marble size hail onto the tin roofs of the town. I was sure that the storm would level a building or two as they looked like they couldn't withstand a rough gesture.
From Naya Pul the five of us crammed into a taxi car for the ride back to Pokhara. We quickly showered, changed, and all met back up at a nearby steakhouse. The $5 filet mignon was outstanding. Not sure if it was the phenomena of hunger being the best cook or the fact that Jenn and I have been strict vegetarians for 40+ days and absence makes the heart grow fonder or in this case, the mouth water.
The remaining couple of days in Pokhara were spent completely relaxing during the day and meeting up with our trekking group each night to eat dinner and play cards.
From Pokhara we take a bus to Kathmandu to explore the capital city for a few days.