Posted by: Jonathan
We jump started our visit to Southern Argentina with a flight from BA to Ushuaia (the southernmost city in the world) and from there caught another plane to El Calafate. I have been stuck on tarmacs with worse views. Once in El Calafate we headed straight for Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home of Perito Moreno Glacier - one of the most active in the world. The glacier rises some 200 feet from the icy cold waters, is 3 miles wide, and about 20 miles deep. The rifle shot sounds of the cracking ice and thunderous splashes of falling pieces impacting the water are signs of this glaciers advancement - up to 7 feet per day. We stood for some time listening to the glacier crack and pop while we devoured some ham and cheese sandwiches - then it happened - a large chunk of ice broke free and fell into the water below with deafening thunder. Even with my trigger finger caked in mayonnaise, Oprah's lightening fast shutter speed captured it all.
From El Calafate we caught a bus to El Chalten which is considered the trekking capital of the country. We wasted no time hitting the trails - we were hiking within a few hours of arriving to town. The few hours we were in town were spent dropping some clothes off to he cleaned while we were out, storing the items we didn't need to take with us, and renting some trekking boots since the trails were muddy from rain/snow the previous week (all turned out great except for one - guesses?). The weather the first day was sub-par, it was sprinkling and all views were obscured by a low lying cloud cover - the weather forecast for the rest of the week was bleak as well. We were prepared for this since the weather in Patagonia is known for being angry, fickle, and unforgiving. We camped the first night by a lake and awoke the next morning with blue skies and perfect views of the Fitz Roy Mountain range.
We hiked to several other campsites spending a total of 4 days/3 nights in the wilderness. I am not sure what provided a bigger motivation to return to town - the fact that we had eaten through our 5 lb bag of cookies we were toting or the lack of more tape to cover up the insane amount of blisters the rental trekking boots gladly gave with each step.
During our four days of trekking we explored, lakes, glaciers, and got up close and personal with the Fitz Roy and Torre peaks. Being that we went in the shoulder season we were able to enjoy the the views and trails only seeing a few people each day. The scenery was some of the most spectacular I have ever seen - even the campsites had views just one zipper pull away and during the night you could hear the wind howl and the thunder of an avalanches in the distance.
The creeks throughout the park were so clear and pure that you could drink straight from them safely - no filter, boiling, or tablets needed.
The weather was absolutely amazing the whole time - there was one evening/night that it was a bit windy (hurricane force winds) but Columbus (the name the tent manufacturer embroidered on our tent and we find it fitting) fared quite well, barely flinching in the breeze. This same night, Jenn went to fetch water and the wind blew her backwards so hard her shoes left skid marks in the dirt (she somehow managed to stay on her feet during this and all four days even with the elements).
I could easily rate this as the #1 trek of my life - my only complaint is, where is the wildlife? The end of the second day a bird flew up near our campsite and Jenn started shouting "get the camera" and I went racing to get a photo when it dawned on me - am I really that starved for wildlife that I am trying to take a photo of a birdie....Yup.
I could easily rate this as the #1 trek of my life - my only complaint is, where is the wildlife? The end of the second day a bird flew up near our campsite and Jenn started shouting "get the camera" and I went racing to get a photo when it dawned on me - am I really that starved for wildlife that I am trying to take a photo of a birdie....Yup.
Once back in town we sprung for a private room (this was the first bed we had slept in in a week and the first private room we have had in over a month) since we needed the sleep for our next adventure. The hotel even came with free entertainment for Jenn, his name was Tango.
The following morning we awoke at sunrise and hiked 2.5 hours to Torre Glacier with Lucas (a German from our Hostel) and Martin (our ice trekking guide). Upon arriving at the glacier we strapped on the crampons and began exploring - up and down ridges, over seemingly bottomless cracks, and past blue ice caves. The only ice I have had much experience with is at the ski resorts on the east coast (usually involved me wiping out), so this was incredibly fun. The crampons hold traction on even the most vertical ice walls and with the ice axes, you are like spiderman clinging to anything. Ice climbing is similar to rock climbing in the belaying and anchoring system but the big difference (besides the temperature at which these sports are enjoyed) was that with rock climbing you have to search out a hand or foot hold but with ice climbing you made the hold by swinging the axe where ever you pleased. Word of caution though - don't swing the axe into your rope because cutting it is counter productive.
All in all our first stop in Patagonia was awesome, far exceeding my expectations, and I can't wait for our next, it's only a 23 hour bus ride away...