Posted by: Jonathan
Crossing from Peru to Bolivia was a breeze; just smile and you get a stamp in your passport - that is for everyone except Americans... We arrived at the boarder with a bus load (literally) of other travelers crossing the border. As we neared the front of the line one of the officers noticed our passports and said "ah Americanos" and ushered us to a separate desk with no line (VIP service). They began with making us fill out paperwork, then needed photocopies of our passports, passport photos, copies of our current vaccinations (which I didn't have - had to leave the office, make the copies and then return), recite the alphabet backwards (in spanish)... you get the idea. Oh and don't let me forget we had to fork over some serious plata (bills) - most expensive purchase on this trip thus far.
It ended up being more than what is pictured - you know you have to throw a little extra in for the cost of the ink used to stamp the passport... the way the border guards were hitting on Jenn I thought it was going to be like the clubs where ladies get in free and only guys have to pay the cover... but no such luck. We were the first off of our bus and the last ones to get on by about half an hour - we were glad the bus waited for us but I don't think anyone else was. "America's relationship with Bolivia is like an abusive ex-boyfriend at best - even though they say they won't do anything wrong again, you know it is only a matter of time" (Custom Official).
From the border we stopped briefly in Copacabana and enjoyed the clear waters and fresh trout. From there our bus was driven onto an oversized wooden john boat and motored across the lake - nothing surprises me anymore.
It ended up being more than what is pictured - you know you have to throw a little extra in for the cost of the ink used to stamp the passport... the way the border guards were hitting on Jenn I thought it was going to be like the clubs where ladies get in free and only guys have to pay the cover... but no such luck. We were the first off of our bus and the last ones to get on by about half an hour - we were glad the bus waited for us but I don't think anyone else was. "America's relationship with Bolivia is like an abusive ex-boyfriend at best - even though they say they won't do anything wrong again, you know it is only a matter of time" (Custom Official).
From the border we stopped briefly in Copacabana and enjoyed the clear waters and fresh trout. From there our bus was driven onto an oversized wooden john boat and motored across the lake - nothing surprises me anymore.
Our first view of La Paz (Bolivia's Capital) was breath taking, not only due to the altitude (12,078 ft) but also because the buildings spilled down the mountain side and seemed to pool in the valley with the Illamani peak as a backdrop.
We found some budget digs just off the main street (and unknown at the time) conveniently located in the center of the witches market. This wasn't a Tarra card and palm reading sissy street stall - they had everything from magic potions and powders that they would mix together while chanting jibberish to idols to dried lama fetuses (it is believed one of these under your porch brings the family good luck - can I get a head count of how many I need to bring home?) Unfortunately, our daily budget ruled out the broom stick rides so we were left with exploring the city on foot for a few days.
We experienced our most interesting museum visit thus far - the Coca Museum. It explained how the coca leaves were embedded in Bolivian culture and religion. Their use dates back to the Incans who used them during surgery to ease pain and also given as sacrifices to their various gods. The leafs history accompanied with the fact that the legal coca leaf production (leaves distributed for tea, chewing, candy, coca-cola - anything other than cocaine) is worth more than all of the rest of Bolivia's agriculture products... combined. It is no wonder they were not a fan of the US backed coca plantation eradication. It seems the US felt it a better investment to spend a couple million to take the coca leaves out of Bolivia than the cocaine out of America.
Work with me for a second - WHAT IF ethonal was some sort of "bad thing" and for the sake of the arguement China was the current world super power and they were having trouble keeping ethanol out of there borders. So China comes over to the US and says "So yeah I am gonna need you to stop growing corn... sure it is a vital part of your agriculture portfolio and will cripple your economy but look, you can plant alfalpha instead - see isn't that fun? Sure it doesn't grow as fast or turn any real profit and no you can't make awesome things like cornbread but work with us here, your corn is hurting our super powerness because we have people abusing ethonal." Yes, there were other factors and pressures present but I left the museum feeling that this was the average Bolivian's point of view of what the US's Drug Enforcement Agency did in the 1980's. It is a wonder we only had to pay $270 to get into the country.
On a much lighter note, Jenn and I road bicycles 40 miles down the world's most dangerous road losing 11,900 ft in the process. The journey started at the snow line on a paved road which quickly deteriorated into a gravel, pot hole ridden road/path averaging 10 feet wide. In some places 2,000 ft sheer cliffs had us white knuckling the handle bars of our 18 speed, hydraulic braked Iron Horse bikes the entire four hour ride down. Thank goodness Jenn is more adept on two wheels than on foot and recorded zero falls on the way down.
On a much lighter note, Jenn and I road bicycles 40 miles down the world's most dangerous road losing 11,900 ft in the process. The journey started at the snow line on a paved road which quickly deteriorated into a gravel, pot hole ridden road/path averaging 10 feet wide. In some places 2,000 ft sheer cliffs had us white knuckling the handle bars of our 18 speed, hydraulic braked Iron Horse bikes the entire four hour ride down. Thank goodness Jenn is more adept on two wheels than on foot and recorded zero falls on the way down.
This easily uprooted dune buggy riding in Huacachina and currently holds the throne as most fun activity in South America. Although, it may not be king for long as we head into Bolivia's amazon region to find indigenous tribes, giant water lillies, and maybe a Rosco relative or two... only time will tell. (For those who don't know Rosco - he is a Red Tailed Boa from South America, likes sunshine and long slithers on the beach, he is currently in Wilmington anxiously awaiting my return.)