Posted by: Jonathan
Typically the hardest posts are about near perfect locations as you are afraid the words you utilize to describe the place will ultimately limit it. With that being said, the following post was d@mn near impossible.
Our bus from Phnom Penh dropped us off in Sihanoukville city center where we shared a tuk tuk with two others (an Italian and Australian) to serendipity beach. Dusk had set in so we negotiated a room for $8 a street away from the sandy shore.
The following morning, instead of hitting the beach, we gathered supplies (water, Pringles, and Cream Soni cookies) and headed for the port. Normally I would call our destination Island X and guard its location, as its greatest asset was the lack of tourists. Since International developers have an airport, golf courses, and all inclusive resorts in the blueprint, slated for completion by 2020 (construction to commence 2013) - I don't feel wrong in uncovering Island X as... Koh Rong. The island's 78 square kilometer currently houses two small fishing villages, four groups of bungalows, and many beautiful sandy stretches of beach. Each group of bungalows are built on different sides of the island. The oldest has been there eight years and the newest (Monkey Island - where we stayed) has been in operation for only a few weeks. The island has no infrastructure, roads, cars, or permanent buildings. Only sandy footpaths and thatch roofed bungalows. It is sad to know the bleak future for this paradise, worse (as we later discovered) was the sound of chainsaws already clear cutting land making it a stark reality.
The four hour boat ride docked just in time to drop our bags into our private bungalow minutes before the sun set.
Typically the hardest posts are about near perfect locations as you are afraid the words you utilize to describe the place will ultimately limit it. With that being said, the following post was d@mn near impossible.
Our bus from Phnom Penh dropped us off in Sihanoukville city center where we shared a tuk tuk with two others (an Italian and Australian) to serendipity beach. Dusk had set in so we negotiated a room for $8 a street away from the sandy shore.
The following morning, instead of hitting the beach, we gathered supplies (water, Pringles, and Cream Soni cookies) and headed for the port. Normally I would call our destination Island X and guard its location, as its greatest asset was the lack of tourists. Since International developers have an airport, golf courses, and all inclusive resorts in the blueprint, slated for completion by 2020 (construction to commence 2013) - I don't feel wrong in uncovering Island X as... Koh Rong. The island's 78 square kilometer currently houses two small fishing villages, four groups of bungalows, and many beautiful sandy stretches of beach. Each group of bungalows are built on different sides of the island. The oldest has been there eight years and the newest (Monkey Island - where we stayed) has been in operation for only a few weeks. The island has no infrastructure, roads, cars, or permanent buildings. Only sandy footpaths and thatch roofed bungalows. It is sad to know the bleak future for this paradise, worse (as we later discovered) was the sound of chainsaws already clear cutting land making it a stark reality.
The four hour boat ride docked just in time to drop our bags into our private bungalow minutes before the sun set.
We awoke the next morning from our mosquito net fortified beds to... paradise.
After a hearty breakfast we trampsed down the beach, around a second bay, through the jungle, and out on a 4km stretch of blinding white sand and crystal clear water. The best part about the beach wasn't what was present, but what was absent. Hotels, shops, restaurants, vendors, hawkers, beggars, you name it, it wasn't there (even footprints were hard to come by). Just dense jungle spilling down the mountain abruptly giving way to a sliver of sand meters before calm crystal clear seas.
We spent the day swimming, snorkeling, sun bathing, and exploring the entire length of beach.
We retraced our footprints back to our bungalow where we watched the sunset before making up our skipped lunch with a dinner feast.
The darkness brought a new set of activities on the island. One of the locals would perform fire dances (swinging chains with balls of fire at the ends) to techno beats.
After the fires were put out and darkness had long settled across the beach, it was time for a swim. The shallow waters were filled with little micro-organisms that light up when disturbed - a process called bioluminescence. A lot like underwater fireflies, we would swim and thrash about in order to "light up" as many as we could. Unfortunately, it was impossible to photograph so you will just have to use your imagination.
Our second morning we set out on an hour long jungle trail crossing the island in search of a longer, whiter, and more beautiful beach, which we found.
Our second morning we set out on an hour long jungle trail crossing the island in search of a longer, whiter, and more beautiful beach, which we found.
I jogged the length of the beach and back (took 2+ hours) while Jenn tanned and turned. Upon my return we spent about five hours straight in the ocean swimming, snorkeling, fish chasing, Frisbee throwing, and draining two camera batteries clicking away.
As we left the beach Jenn discovered a beautiful white sand dollar nestled in the sand. We decided the beach was too perfect to disturb so we left it where it lay, but not before snapping a photo.
We returned to our bungalow at Monkey Island for another sunset, dinner, fire dance, and bioluminescent swim combo.
Sunsets aren't the only solar spectacle on the island, on our last morning I awoke early and swung in the hammock watching the sun peak out over the vast ocean.
Sunsets aren't the only solar spectacle on the island, on our last morning I awoke early and swung in the hammock watching the sun peak out over the vast ocean.
As we boarded a boat back to mainland I questioned Jenn on why we couldn't stay on the island for another week/year (she still hasn't given me a noteworthy answer). Once onshore we traded books, replenished our survival supplies (water, Pringles, and cookies) and boarded a night bus headed to Siem Reap. This was a "direct", "non-stop", VIP bus with a toilet, well, at least that is what the ticket we purchased said. We only changed buses once, no toilet on either bus, and I lost count after 10 stops. Other passengers complained, but we smiled knowing this is easily on par for Southeast Asia. The trip to Siem Reap was long as our anticipation mounted to visit nearby Angkor Wat, the 8th wonder of the World.