Posted by: Jonathan
When planning the trip to South America there were a few milestone attractions that were must sees for us - Machu Piccu, Patagonia, Amazon, Iguacu Falls, andddddd last but certainly not least the Salar de Uyuni. We did a half day of research before we booked a tour with Cordillera for four days and three nights crossing the desert, high altitude lakes, volcanoes, and of course the largest salt flat in the world - Salar de Uyuni. Eighteen of us were carted to the border via bus where we performed border formalities and were fed a hearty breakfast of bread and jam. Upon completing the "meal" we were told to divide into groups of six. Jenn and I knew this was coming - before booking the tour we asked the agency how it was decided. Spending four days crammed in a jeep with seven people can be awesome or a nightmare, largely depending on those you are sharing the space with. With a little bit of work, and luck, we landed in the ultimate dream team jeep tour group with one other American (Laura), one Aussie (Jemmatron), one Canadian (Kasandra), one Frenchman (Francisco), and our Bolivian driver Epi - we called ourselves Team Epi Pen, "Feel the Adrenalin".
When planning the trip to South America there were a few milestone attractions that were must sees for us - Machu Piccu, Patagonia, Amazon, Iguacu Falls, andddddd last but certainly not least the Salar de Uyuni. We did a half day of research before we booked a tour with Cordillera for four days and three nights crossing the desert, high altitude lakes, volcanoes, and of course the largest salt flat in the world - Salar de Uyuni. Eighteen of us were carted to the border via bus where we performed border formalities and were fed a hearty breakfast of bread and jam. Upon completing the "meal" we were told to divide into groups of six. Jenn and I knew this was coming - before booking the tour we asked the agency how it was decided. Spending four days crammed in a jeep with seven people can be awesome or a nightmare, largely depending on those you are sharing the space with. With a little bit of work, and luck, we landed in the ultimate dream team jeep tour group with one other American (Laura), one Aussie (Jemmatron), one Canadian (Kasandra), one Frenchman (Francisco), and our Bolivian driver Epi - we called ourselves Team Epi Pen, "Feel the Adrenalin".
It wasn't long after crossing the border into Bolivia that the jaw dropping scenery began - lagoons, colorful mountains, and flamingos.
As we settled into our refuge for the night the altitude began to do work on me (5,400m or 17,700 ft) and by the following morning it had caught up to Jenn also. The nausea and headaches subsided after soaking in a natural hot spring and visiting a blood red lagoon.
From there we drove on, passing many more lagoons, volcanoes, colorful mountains, desert boulder fields, and flamingo breeding areas. The landscape is simply other worldly - some of the most unique views I have ever seen. The only place I have seen that is remotely similar is Yellowstone with geysers, mud pits, thermal springs, and the familiar pungent sulfur smell. The most noticeable difference is Yellowstone has walkways, warning signs, and railings separating you from all the thermal activity - in Bolivia common sense is the only boundary. In other words (for me) there were no boundaries. I was able to walk up to the edge of everything and stick my hand in to check the temperature - still have my hand, no hair on it, but I still have it.
After a full day of sightseeing and being bounced around in a 4x4 we were able to unwind for the night in a salt hotel. The outside walls and roof were made of wood but everything else was made of salt: interior walls, floor, tables, chairs, beds, etc. We were fed llama steaks that night which washed down fantastically with a bottle of local wine given to us by our generous tour guide. We retired early since we planned to wake up the next morning to watch the sunrise over the salt flats.
Even though we woke up at 2:30 am, watching the moon set on one side of the salt flat while simultaneously watching the sun rise on the other was well worth it. Our group gasped as the sun's initial rays gave us a peak of the flat white salt abyss that lay ahead.
After eating breakfast (as much bread and dulce de leche as a human can stand) on Fish Island, which would be better suited as cactus island, we set out in the jeeps across the salt flat.
After driving for some time, we stopped in the middle where every direction you looked all you could see was a never ending sea of salt. Since the Salar de Uyuni is so large and flat you lose perspective, which allows for some very creative photography.
After crossing the majority of the salt flats we passed some workers that were shoveling the salt into a truck to be hauled off for refinement.
Once we arrived to Uyuni, Bolivia, we took a few hours to explore before getting into a new jeep with a new driver and making our way back the eight hours to San Pedro de Atacama. As we crossed out of Bolivia the officer requested 15 Bolivianos to stamp my passport - I refused to pay the bribe and got the ink anyway - sucka. I thought we were home free until Jenn got worked over in the Chilean customs office. He must have thought she was awfully cute because he thoroughly searched her bag for a good twenty minutes and merely glanced at mine.
Overall, I was extremely impressed with the tour of the Salar de Uyuni. I had rather high expectations for it, and it delivered over and above. The landscape was unbelievably unique, unforgivably rugged, and unforgettably beautiful.
We continued our journey north toward Arica which is the northernmost city in Chile, just a stones throw away from Peru. During the Pacific War the Chilean army claimed the town and hilltop fort (El Morro) from the Peruvians in a battle that lasted just under an hour. We arrived on Thanksgiving day, which unfortunately isn't celebrated here. We spent the first part of the day lounging on the beach and playing soccer with some locals. Then we indulged in hearty hot dog lunches (completos), with pineapple shakes, and t.v. movies. Later, we claimed the hilltop fort of El Morro as our own and watched the sunset.
We continued our journey north toward Arica which is the northernmost city in Chile, just a stones throw away from Peru. During the Pacific War the Chilean army claimed the town and hilltop fort (El Morro) from the Peruvians in a battle that lasted just under an hour. We arrived on Thanksgiving day, which unfortunately isn't celebrated here. We spent the first part of the day lounging on the beach and playing soccer with some locals. Then we indulged in hearty hot dog lunches (completos), with pineapple shakes, and t.v. movies. Later, we claimed the hilltop fort of El Morro as our own and watched the sunset.
We capped Thanksgiving off with a list of what we are thankful for and a banquet of our own: all you can eat pizza, coke, and chocolate. Even though the food was excellent, we did miss spending time with loved ones (and my grandmother's deviled eggs).
Happy Thanksgiving to all our family and friends - we miss you all and are thankful for your love and support.
Happy Thanksgiving to all our family and friends - we miss you all and are thankful for your love and support.