Posted by: Jenn
Yes - there really is a lake called Lake Titicaca - pronounced exactly how you think it is :-) Situated half in Peru and half in Bolivia, this huge bright blue body of water offers spectacular views on multiple tranquillo islands throughout the lake. However, because we had heard that most travelers were disappointed with the lake tours we did our best to try to avoid buying into the whole schpill. Therefore, Jonathan worked his magic to try to get us on board with the locals so we could blaze our own path. Seeing as my "un poco" Espanol wasn't going to be of any assistance in this bargaining match, I stood there and gave my best smile. I guess it was because I hadn't washed my hair in a few days, but the local captain was not giving in - he kept pointing to the "Touristico" boat. Against all our efforts, we ended up buying a two day tour with about 12 other foreigners. The boat would take us from Puno to the Floating Islands for a quick visit, then on to Isla Amantani where we would spend one night with a local family. The next day we would continue on to Isla Taquile for lunch then head back to Puno.
Both of us were very excited to see the Islas Flotantes (Floating Islands) as there are not anything like them anywhere else in the world. They are islands built using layers of totora reeds that grow in Lake Titicaca and they were created by the Uros tribe to isolate themselves from the Incas. As our touristico boat inched closer to the islands we were waved down by some "locals" dressed in bright garments.
Yes - there really is a lake called Lake Titicaca - pronounced exactly how you think it is :-) Situated half in Peru and half in Bolivia, this huge bright blue body of water offers spectacular views on multiple tranquillo islands throughout the lake. However, because we had heard that most travelers were disappointed with the lake tours we did our best to try to avoid buying into the whole schpill. Therefore, Jonathan worked his magic to try to get us on board with the locals so we could blaze our own path. Seeing as my "un poco" Espanol wasn't going to be of any assistance in this bargaining match, I stood there and gave my best smile. I guess it was because I hadn't washed my hair in a few days, but the local captain was not giving in - he kept pointing to the "Touristico" boat. Against all our efforts, we ended up buying a two day tour with about 12 other foreigners. The boat would take us from Puno to the Floating Islands for a quick visit, then on to Isla Amantani where we would spend one night with a local family. The next day we would continue on to Isla Taquile for lunch then head back to Puno.
Both of us were very excited to see the Islas Flotantes (Floating Islands) as there are not anything like them anywhere else in the world. They are islands built using layers of totora reeds that grow in Lake Titicaca and they were created by the Uros tribe to isolate themselves from the Incas. As our touristico boat inched closer to the islands we were waved down by some "locals" dressed in bright garments.
Our group was hoarded off the boat and onto the islands. We were ready to explore! However, the "locals" had a stage set up where we were all supposed to be seated to hear about how they built the islands. Yes, this part was very interesting.
But what speech wouldn't be complete with "We work so hard to support our families, please buy handcrafts made from the totora. We make special price just for you." We also had one plump fourteen year old girl tell us that she only ate fish, nada mas. She showed us her eight year old totora house which consisted of one room with one double bed and five outfits.
It sure looked good for being eight years old and made of reeds... She, her mami and her papi supposedly lived there. We never saw a bathroom, hairbrush (these people have long black shiny hair), food, kitchenware, stove...nothing. This was when we came to the conclusion that this was all a big production that we wished we hadn't of paid for. They obviously take the morning express to this "second home" to put on a show for the touristico boats and try to sell handcrafts and then head to their real home at night for dinner, showers, and sleep. Tourists being exploited...I think so.
We boarded the boat after a disappointing visit and continued on to Isla Amantani. At the dock we were handed off to a local woman who smiled and showed us and two others from our boat to her house. We were excited to do a homestay with a local family and eat and visit with them. Homestays are a great way to interact with the locals and from our understanding, they are happy to have visitors, and gifts of food or money is totally voluntary. She showed us to our room, which was separate from their house and contained four beds, as a hostal would, and put the two other travelers in another room - also separate from their house. After we settled in we were served lunch. The family did not eat with us nor did they say much. We were given a plate of potatoes and weird potatoes (I wish we would have taken a photo) that I couldn't manage to look at, much less try to eat. Jonathan didn't even finish his plate - that says a lot. After a quiet meal we took off to explore the island, grabbing a couple of chocolate bars to sustain ourselves until dinner. We hiked to the top of the island to get a panoramic view of the lake. Breathtaking.
We boarded the boat after a disappointing visit and continued on to Isla Amantani. At the dock we were handed off to a local woman who smiled and showed us and two others from our boat to her house. We were excited to do a homestay with a local family and eat and visit with them. Homestays are a great way to interact with the locals and from our understanding, they are happy to have visitors, and gifts of food or money is totally voluntary. She showed us to our room, which was separate from their house and contained four beds, as a hostal would, and put the two other travelers in another room - also separate from their house. After we settled in we were served lunch. The family did not eat with us nor did they say much. We were given a plate of potatoes and weird potatoes (I wish we would have taken a photo) that I couldn't manage to look at, much less try to eat. Jonathan didn't even finish his plate - that says a lot. After a quiet meal we took off to explore the island, grabbing a couple of chocolate bars to sustain ourselves until dinner. We hiked to the top of the island to get a panoramic view of the lake. Breathtaking.
After exploring we made our way back to the house for dinner. Thank goodness, dinner was much more edible than lunch and we scarfed it down - potato soup, rice with veggies and mint tea. Yummm!
We had heard from previous tourists that after dinner their host families had taken them dancing at a local bar and given them local attire to sport. We were excited for this experience. After we scarfed down dinner we waited for our lady to come get us for a night on the town. I'm glad we didn't hold our breath... Luckily we had our netbook and a couple of movies to choose from. She's Out of My League is super funny if you haven't seen it!
The next morning we awoke early for delicious pancakes, bread and more mint tea. After breakfast we went to our room to pack so we could head to the dock. As we tried to leave our room we found a road block at our door. The little old lady was standing there with her hand out. We were prepared to voluntarily pay her what we had read was the standard cost of a homestay but we were taken aback by the fact that she was asking for it. Anyways - we handed her the money, smiled and said Gracias. She didn't move. She did, however, speak to us for the first time, "Cinco mas". We were confused but whatever, we gave her cinco mas. She still didn't move. She wanted double what we had given her. Whaaaa!? We didn't understand...so many times we had heard that what you pay is voluntary. She was irritated with us and us with her. We slid by her, without paying more and headed for the boat dock. As we boarded the boat we were harassed by several locals about how we didn't pay in full. How did they all know this already...anyways - feeling like cheapskates we handed over double what we thought we should pay and boarded the boat with a bitter taste in our mouths. I guess it would have been fine if someone had told us in the beginning what the homestay would cost, but the way we were handed off to her by the tour boat captain without any explanation or any other choice we felt cheated in a way. On the way to Isla Taquile we heard heartwarming stories about how fun each other couples' homestay was and how learning the local dance moves was exhausting but an experience to remember.
We arrived to Isla Taquile after a quick boat ride and were happy to be able to explore for a few hours on our own without any sales pitches or anyone asking for money.
The next morning we awoke early for delicious pancakes, bread and more mint tea. After breakfast we went to our room to pack so we could head to the dock. As we tried to leave our room we found a road block at our door. The little old lady was standing there with her hand out. We were prepared to voluntarily pay her what we had read was the standard cost of a homestay but we were taken aback by the fact that she was asking for it. Anyways - we handed her the money, smiled and said Gracias. She didn't move. She did, however, speak to us for the first time, "Cinco mas". We were confused but whatever, we gave her cinco mas. She still didn't move. She wanted double what we had given her. Whaaaa!? We didn't understand...so many times we had heard that what you pay is voluntary. She was irritated with us and us with her. We slid by her, without paying more and headed for the boat dock. As we boarded the boat we were harassed by several locals about how we didn't pay in full. How did they all know this already...anyways - feeling like cheapskates we handed over double what we thought we should pay and boarded the boat with a bitter taste in our mouths. I guess it would have been fine if someone had told us in the beginning what the homestay would cost, but the way we were handed off to her by the tour boat captain without any explanation or any other choice we felt cheated in a way. On the way to Isla Taquile we heard heartwarming stories about how fun each other couples' homestay was and how learning the local dance moves was exhausting but an experience to remember.
We arrived to Isla Taquile after a quick boat ride and were happy to be able to explore for a few hours on our own without any sales pitches or anyone asking for money.
Lake Titicaca was definitely beautiful and we are glad we saw it from each island and not just from Puno's shore. But if it had to be done over again, I would learn Spanish, wash my hair and get on a boat with the locals.